Drivetrain Help - Arctic Cat Prowler Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Drivetrain Help

Have a 2009 700 XTX which I bought used about a month or so ago. It's was really cold here in Wisconsin. When I went to move it out of the barn to use my tractor to plow my driveway, it appeared not to go into 4-wheel drive.

Then noticed it would barely move st all. The next day I tried again thinking it was a cold issue. Nope. Still nothing. Thought it was the belt. Removed the cover from belt drive and oil came out of the cover. The belt is oil covered. Guessing this is not to be this way. Any help out there would be great.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 05:54 AM
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The culprit is the seal on the outer cover. These take a beating and do fail. Not a bad job if you have access to an impact, and a press. It requires removing the primary, and secondary clutches, draining the oil, and removing the inner cover. The clutch housing needs to be pressed out to gain access to the seal. They load from the inside. Another thing to look at is the fixed spacer as they sometimes develop a groove. The cover gaskets are reusable so be careful with them, the seal is a low dollar item, but a pain to change! The Clutch nut that holds the secondary on should be replaced also (I've found that they lose grip after repeated use, and allow the fixed plate to come off) For a free service manual go to K&T lawn equipment. I usually see about 3,500-5,000 miles on seals before they leak. The belt can be cleaned with soap and water. Clean the clutch surfaces with brake cleaner. On the inner cover, just take that to any shop that has a press and they will be able to help!
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 06:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpdavidson02 View Post
The culprit is the seal on the outer cover. These take a beating and do fail. Not a bad job if you have access to an impact, and a press. It requires removing the primary, and secondary clutches, draining the oil, and removing the inner cover. The clutch housing needs to be pressed out to gain access to the seal. They load from the inside. Another thing to look at is the fixed spacer as they sometimes develop a groove. The cover gaskets are reusable so be careful with them, the seal is a low dollar item, but a pain to change! The Clutch nut that holds the secondary on should be replaced also (I've found that they lose grip after repeated use, and allow the fixed plate to come off) For a free service manual go to K&T lawn equipment. I usually see about 3,500-5,000 miles on seals before they leak. The belt can be cleaned with soap and water. Clean the clutch surfaces with brake cleaner. On the inner cover, just take that to any shop that has a press and they will be able to help!
Yes what he said!
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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So is this gear oil or engine oil in the belt housing?
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 05:27 PM
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So is this gear oil or engine oil in the belt housing?
Engine
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 03:28 AM
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Like many motorcycle engines, the transmission and engine are combined in the same crankcase. It is important to use oils that are Wet Clutch Certified. I've used multiple brands with great success. I now use Amsoil as I can get it locally. My nearest dealer is 20 miles away.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 01:33 PM
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Found a couple of pictures showing the clutch area. The shaft on the right is the primary clutch shaft, that is where the seal is located. Unfortunately the seal loads from the inside. It takes me about 1 1/2 hours to pull both covers and replace the seal. I do keep a spare inner case in my shop ready to go if I need it. It is also part of my road kit for when we are away from home!
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-31-2016, 06:07 AM Thread Starter
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All of this is very helpful. I am going to work on it this weekend. Hopefully my dealer will replace seal if I buy seal from them.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-31-2016, 01:57 PM
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There are some good videos on You Tube regarding the clutch/belt removal. K&T lawn equipment offers free service manuals. Prowlers are pretty easy to work on when using a manual! Good luck with your repairs. Even if you have to pay shop time to replace the seal, it is better than trying to force it out at home!
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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Could use a little more help. Which seal are we referring to? Left one or right one? Left one looks like it may be attached to cover. Not sure on the right one yet.
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