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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
07 Powler XT 650 H1. We were cruising around tonight and after about 15-20 minutes wheeler just died and displayed VOLT on the gauge. Cycle key to off position and turn It back on and it fires right up. It did this about 4 times before we got back home. Checked connections on battery and all tight. Voltage read 12.3v when wheeler is off and 13.0 volts when running. I think most batteries should run high 12v when off and low 14v when running. Battery may be old not sure on the age of it. Has started no problem for the last couple weeks since I got the wheeler. I just hope it's not the stator! Things I've done since I got it consist of pulling off both clutches and thoroughly cleaning them. Pulled off back clutch cover and checked condition of wet clutch (which was good) and pulled out the engine brake (one way clutch bearing). Changed oil and filter. THOUGHTS???? Thanks!
 

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Fully charged battery is 12.7, charging system when running should be about 14.5 volts when running with everything turned off. A bad battery will not take a good charge, I'd try a new battery. I bought one at Family Farm & Equipment and it is a AGM type, pretty reasonable on cost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
One more thing I also added a dynatek FS digital performance ignition to eliminate the forward and reverse limiters. Said raises max rpm from 6500 to 8000. Do these draw more voltage? Maybe battery was good enough for the stock cdi??
 

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Those units use very little voltage, you more than likely could never measure the amp draw. Is your battery accessible thru the left wheelwell? It is more than likely a 325 amp battery, very small considering the beating they take. I put a 400 amp on mine to replace the 325, and also added a second battery controlled through a remote solenoid, I control it with a switch to charge it, or put it online with the primary battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Those units use very little voltage, you more than likely could never measure the amp draw. Is your battery accessible thru the left wheelwell? It is more than likely a 325 amp battery, very small considering the beating they take. I put a 400 amp on mine to replace the 325, and also added a second battery controlled through a remote solenoid, I control it with a switch to charge it, or put it online with the primary battery.
Looks like what would come stock on it. I have a buddy with a shop I'll have him load test it I'm betting it's junk (I hope) if it is I'll throw an interstate in it and bigger like you say. See how that works if not guess I'll be diving into the stator - I soooooooo hope not. I got bad luck with wheelers and stators going bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well this issue has come back again. Last week after the battery change wheeler ran fine on the ride we went on for about 4 hours but never had lights on or anything else that would draw on the battery. Yesterday fired the wheeler up turned lights on and left them on. Wheeler was running for a total of maybe 20 minutes and she died display shut off and said volts. Jumped it went for a rip with the lights off and 5 minutes later did it again. Limped it back home charged the battery and can only get about 11.6 v while running and the lights on. I'm about 90% sure it's the damn stator now. Going to run a couple more volt/ohm tests and probably be ordering up a stator tomorrow from rmstator on ebay.
 

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Any chance it could be a ground problem? I know that some people have ran an additional ground wire to the frame to solve some electrical issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Got he stator out and found an open circuit on the trigger coil. Pulled wires our of the rubber grommet and the blue wire had been pulled and was shorting out. Could probably be fixed but I already got a new stator coming from RMSTATOR which is better than stock anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
FIxed again. Put in new stator from RMSTATOR and after install was dielectric greasing all connections and wouldn't you know it found my voltage regulator wasn't fully plugged in. Double checked old stator (originally tested trigger coil wrong which showed it was bad) again and the original ohm good all coils. Did have some insulation peeled back and a wire showing but was still in good shape just needed tape. Oh well I run a set of speakers and small amp for mp3 player and my new stator can handle more. Live and learn I guess. So anyone with this problem load test battery first make sure it's good, make sure voltage regulator IS FULLY PLUGGED IN, then Lastly OHM Stator per manual. Did about 80 miles last weekend and Ran speakers & lights on and off all weekend with no issues. Hope my lessons learned helps someone else.
 
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