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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a 2007 prowler 650h1 recently with 95hrs and 182 miles on it. Has lots of accessories......roof, heavy glass windsheild, doors with removeable windows and back window, box heater on the floor, turn signals, winch, 72" Curtis plow. Nice looking machine. Well......haven't taken it out yet as I'm working on a trailer for it but I noticed it overheating........some fluid was leaking out.......both thru the radiator tube and near engine somewhere. Fan doesnt kick on, fuse is good. I tightened all hoses etc as the old timer i bought it from told me he had once noticed a leak on one of the added heater hoses. I added some fluid but she still overheats.....pushing antifreeze out the radiator .......I pulled the thermostat.......it opens in boiling water......fan doesn't turn on.......but I notice no water flow with thermostat out. Is my water pump out?? Could there be air in the system stopping flow? I need some advice as Im not sure what to do......I ordered new thermostat and both sensors so I know I can eliminate those but I'm not sure how to figure water pump and/or air lock issue.
 

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Welcome to the forum! Sounds like you got a nice machine with great accessories! From what I'm hearing it sounds like an air lock in the cooling system. I 've encountered it many times! I fill my cooling system, put the cap back on, and start my Prowler. I then loosen the hose clamp on the hose near the thermostat housing until the air is released. You may have to do this several times. The fan may come on early, or not at all. FYI, newer machines come with an air bleed. Let us know how it works out!
 

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Great point on the heater! BTW, last time I did mine, I filled the system, put my coolant system test kit on, pumped it up to 10 psi, ( I was checking for leaks) and then opened the bleeder! First time I ever bleed it in one attempt!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Once my thermostat and sensors arrive I will give my best go at it. Hopefully I can get the air out. Two days ago a guy from a shop an hoyr away told me to loosen cap and get her warmed up and see if I can force the air through to make sure its flowing. I revved it up and down for a bit and the coolant level did go down some and I could see some flow but thermostat isn't in so now I will be opening it up again when I get that and sensors replaced.....and of course will reintroduce air as well. I bought an owners manual on eBay and I thought I read in there that there was an air bleeding spot......is there a plug that can be loosened somewhere.......by waterpump maybe? Or would it have to be the highest point? I was trying to think of a way to pump up pressure and see if I could get air out that way. Where could I get that pressure test kit? Does that connect to the radiator then where the cap goes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
And no on the secondary pump.......they simply cut the line by the thermostat housing......necked that down for a smaller size hose.......ran that under the floor and to a heater core in a box with a fan that is on the floor....then ran the other hose back up and necked it up a size back to the hose they cut. They put two 90 degree elbows in that run so as to not kink the hose....... to cut down on possible leaking points I may try eliminate one of them. As long as the flow doesn't get hindered.
 

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I bought a motorcycle test kit, but I use it a lot, I think I paid around 40 dollars for it. As for the location of the bleed, if you have one it would be on the steel coolant line out of the thermostat. I think Auto Zone loans tools, but not sure. I've yet to hear about a water pump failure. When installing the thermostat make sure the bypass holes are straight up and down, not indexing the thermostat will trap air. Mityvac MV4510 Motorcycle Cooling System Test Kit is what I used, found it on Amazon
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
We got back from cub scout camp and I had enough time to peak at it some and start figuring my game plan. I dont want to eliminate the heater cuz I like it but I I'll say....... That floor heater is a son of a gun to work on......I see some drips coming down one of the hoses under the floor but can't see fiddly and can barely reach the damn clamps. May have to remove that whole undercarriage protector cuz the little heater core won't come up out of the heater box with the hoses attached. I wonder how the hell they got it in there. I can't tell if its leaking at the hose clamp or if the core itself could be leaking. Definitely leaking there though. Will work on it tonight after work and scout meeting.......if we get done early enuf. I will stay in touch. Thanks for the advice so far.
 

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Just throwing this out there for thought, your heater input & output is hooked in the same hose leading to the radiator. Is it possible that the heater core is restricting flow to the radiator causing the engine to overheat? Arctic Cat heaters tee off the input side of the radiator to the input of the heater core and the output of the heater core tee's into the return line of the radiator on the passenger side.

I don't think you will have any water flow out of the pump unless your RPM's are up. Just some thoughts, anyone is welcome to tear them apart:box::happy:
 

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I wasn't suggesting a permanent removal, but just for diagnostic purposes to check for proper coolant flow.
Sounds like a good place to start
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
yes I suppose its reduced cuz the lines are smaller in diameter and its a small heater core.so do you think I should just tee off of the thermostat line and return back through a tee in the line to the line to the pump?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I wasn't suggesting a permanent removal, but just for diagnostic purposes to check for proper coolant flow.
Right on. I think once I got some rpms up I could see flow. The radiator went down some but now thatbo spotted the leak in the heater hose area Im gonna figure that out and try my best to get all the air out of the system so that I can ensure that isn't slowing the flow. Thanks for the advice.
 
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