Arctic Cat Prowler Forum banner

Drivetrain Help

3941 Views 12 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  dpdavidson02
Have a 2009 700 XTX which I bought used about a month or so ago. It's was really cold here in Wisconsin. When I went to move it out of the barn to use my tractor to plow my driveway, it appeared not to go into 4-wheel drive.

Then noticed it would barely move st all. The next day I tried again thinking it was a cold issue. Nope. Still nothing. Thought it was the belt. Removed the cover from belt drive and oil came out of the cover. The belt is oil covered. Guessing this is not to be this way. Any help out there would be great.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
The culprit is the seal on the outer cover. These take a beating and do fail. Not a bad job if you have access to an impact, and a press. It requires removing the primary, and secondary clutches, draining the oil, and removing the inner cover. The clutch housing needs to be pressed out to gain access to the seal. They load from the inside. Another thing to look at is the fixed spacer as they sometimes develop a groove. The cover gaskets are reusable so be careful with them, the seal is a low dollar item, but a pain to change! The Clutch nut that holds the secondary on should be replaced also (I've found that they lose grip after repeated use, and allow the fixed plate to come off) For a free service manual go to K&T lawn equipment. I usually see about 3,500-5,000 miles on seals before they leak. The belt can be cleaned with soap and water. Clean the clutch surfaces with brake cleaner. On the inner cover, just take that to any shop that has a press and they will be able to help!
The culprit is the seal on the outer cover. These take a beating and do fail. Not a bad job if you have access to an impact, and a press. It requires removing the primary, and secondary clutches, draining the oil, and removing the inner cover. The clutch housing needs to be pressed out to gain access to the seal. They load from the inside. Another thing to look at is the fixed spacer as they sometimes develop a groove. The cover gaskets are reusable so be careful with them, the seal is a low dollar item, but a pain to change! The Clutch nut that holds the secondary on should be replaced also (I've found that they lose grip after repeated use, and allow the fixed plate to come off) For a free service manual go to K&T lawn equipment. I usually see about 3,500-5,000 miles on seals before they leak. The belt can be cleaned with soap and water. Clean the clutch surfaces with brake cleaner. On the inner cover, just take that to any shop that has a press and they will be able to help!
Yes what he said!
So is this gear oil or engine oil in the belt housing?
So is this gear oil or engine oil in the belt housing?
Engine
Like many motorcycle engines, the transmission and engine are combined in the same crankcase. It is important to use oils that are Wet Clutch Certified. I've used multiple brands with great success. I now use Amsoil as I can get it locally. My nearest dealer is 20 miles away.
4
Found a couple of pictures showing the clutch area. The shaft on the right is the primary clutch shaft, that is where the seal is located. Unfortunately the seal loads from the inside. It takes me about 1 1/2 hours to pull both covers and replace the seal. I do keep a spare inner case in my shop ready to go if I need it. It is also part of my road kit for when we are away from home!

Attachments

See less See more
All of this is very helpful. I am going to work on it this weekend. Hopefully my dealer will replace seal if I buy seal from them.
There are some good videos on You Tube regarding the clutch/belt removal. K&T lawn equipment offers free service manuals. Prowlers are pretty easy to work on when using a manual! Good luck with your repairs. Even if you have to pay shop time to replace the seal, it is better than trying to force it out at home!
3
Could use a little more help. Which seal are we referring to? Left one or right one? Left one looks like it may be attached to cover. Not sure on the right one yet.

Attachments

See less See more
Be the one on the right. Next to the splines is the fixed plate spacer, mine had a groove in it. The seal unfortunately loads from the inside of the case. A little oil goes a long way! Next for you is to drain the oil, and pull the inner cover. Steps are : 1) Pull inner cover, 2) Press clutch housing out of cover, 3) Remove, and replace the seal, 4) Inspect spacer for damage, 5) put inner cover back on, etc. etc. etc. go have fun! Look at the parts diagram, as there is a o-ring that should be replaced at the same time. I use either brake, or carb cleaner to clean the case. The clutch housings on these are pretty tuff, I've never had to replace one yet! If you do have to replace it, I'd look at Power Sports Nation, or ebay for a good used one.
2
Once I removed the amazing amount of screws the inner cover came off. Do I remove the shaft that came off with the cover? Don't want to ruin anything. Will likely have my dealer press the new one in.

Attachments

See less See more
The shaft you mention is the clutch housing, it needs to be pressed out. Dealer sounds like a plan! Your clutch housing appears to be fine BTW. These seals live in a high heat environment and take a beating. I'm surprised on how long they last! We carry a spare cover with us on the road, and have never had to use it!
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top