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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
By the way if anyone is thinking about removing the engine brake I recommend it. I love it. You don't get that chatter from the drive shaft when you touch the brake. I am sure I will use brake pads alot more but I don't care. I live in KY and do alot of woods riding but the engine still slows you down just enough. Very happy I took it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Your One way clutch is number 28. Scroll to the top of this thread to see a real pic of the bearing. You will have to remove the V-belt cover, both pulleys, belt, etc. You also have to remove the clutch housing cover, drain your oil and coolant before you remove the clutch cover or you will have a mess. You must have an impact and use heat to remove the pulleys because they use Lock-tite from the factory and mine were a bi#*+ getting off. I just did mine so shoot me an email with any questions, I am happy to help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Number 8 is a 36mm. Number 4 is bigger, not sure exact size. I just got pissed and forced a 12-pt 36mm on it and made it work. I am referring to the diagram above.
 

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At the moment I have both primary and secondary clutches removed. I haven't proceeded yet to pulling off the inner clutch cover (just been busy). I guess my question is once I pull everything apart do I just remove that bearing (number 28 in diagram) and put everything back together? This removes the engine brake but everything else works as it should still?

thanks, just want to clarify before I mess anything up.

Jordan
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I did some research and that is what I understood. I just did mine and don't have more than 15 miles on it like that, so I am hoping we can get some input from someone on here with a bit more knowledge/experience. Please someone respond.......we need your wisdom.
 

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Is the one way bearing the reason the Prowler bucks when you are going slow or backing up? Also my 700 XTX jerks real bad when you take off from a standing start, you must feather the gas real slow or you will squeal the tires. Any thoughts? I bought it used with 82 hours on it (probably why he sold it). Thanks
 

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Yea someone please enlighten me on the question about the bucking. Did it help, i've got a 2010 1000 XTZ and it's awesome, but jerky as heck!! It's got some mods done to the clutches, and it's helped out a little bit, but man it's still so dang touchy, feels like it's gonna wheelie everytime i hit the gas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It is the engine brake that slows you down just as you let off the gas. Sounds like if you removed yours you would be happy with it. It also makes tight spots a little jerky with feathering the gas. You will use brake pads a lot more often, at least I do.
 

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the bucking is from the prowler being overclutched with real light rollers and low rate/pretension secondary when I clutch these machines i normally clutch that bucking right out of them. The race bikes that arctic cat runs in the pits have the one way (engine brake) removed as well. they do this incase the bike fails in the pit it is easy to move around. teh secondary nut is a 1-5/16 nut.
 

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So are you saying the bucking is from the clutch settings or the "engine brake bearing"? I just want to get this thing to takeoff smooth and not buck when I am slowing down or trying to load it on a trailer. Artic Cat tech told me it was because of the "turf saving" rear end. I am confused, but Artic Cat was of NO HELP WHATSOEVER. BAD CUSTOMER RELATIONS for someone who owns 2 Prowlers. The 700 has been parked for 3 months and I am using the 650 that doesn't buck. Thanks
 

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that bucking can be taken out by offsetting the lighter rollers with a slightly heavier one. yes some bucking is caused by the turf saver but not in straight line conditions. I actually replaced the ring in the rear diff on a buddys machine without taking the differential out the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
LOL, yeah its just too bad that little thing costs $70. You live and learn. I did but a new one because my son is learning to drive my Prowler and the engine brake will save me from having to replace bumpers, plastics, headlights, etc. But.... I really do like out without it.
 

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bucking

I guess I am a little slow but are you replacing the engine brake bearing, a clutch bearing (if so do you have any details?) or a gear in the differential? Sorry to be so slow but I just want to know how to stop the bucking. Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
We are talking about the one way clutch bearing, otherwise known as "engine brake". Papa_Slap seems to know much more about the Prowler, sounds like his suggestion in adjusting the clutching would be the best way to go. That stuff is way over my head so maybe he can give you some more info on that. If you want to just remove the engine brake then I can help you with that.
 

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that bucking can be taken out by offsetting the lighter rollers with a slightly heavier one. yes some bucking is caused by the turf saver but not in straight line conditions. I actually replaced the ring in the rear diff on a buddys machine without taking the differential out the frame.
So I have a 07 prowler XT 650 H1 I just picked up and I believe it is stock clutching and I have that bucking think going on as well. I've only felt it at low speeds when I back up, go forward, or turn slow I fell that. Also when I hit the brakes holy man is there some crazy noise like a gear or chatter or something weird never heard that before out of a machine. Was thinking clutches were junk so I tore into them and they look pretty good. Has 4500 miles on it no MODs all stock. Now was thinking the wet clutch but then I ran across this article. Sooooo should I remove the one way clutch/engine breaking?? Starts good, runs good, smooth at high speed. Governed at roughly 40mph so I installed a DYNA FS digital performance ignition to override that and raise my max RPM from 6500-8000 is my only mod so far. ANY HELP?? That noise when I hit the brakes and the bucking in ridiculous!!!!!
 
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