My 2006 650 Prowler always ran fine. Pulled it into the garage and next day went to start it and all that happens is the solenoid clicks like a baby machine gun. Thinking it was the battery, I charged it and tried again but still a bunch of clicks. I tried jumping the solenoid terminals and nothing. I had replaced the solenoid earlier this year, so I thought it was the starter. I bought a new starter and it still does the same thing as with the old starter, nothing, a bunch of repetitive clicks. When my solenoid was bad the last time, I was able to jump the terminals to start it. This time I just get a few sparks. Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
Starter/Solinoid problems
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Welcome first if you take the small cover off on the passengerside of the engine this is where the pull starter would go you can use a ratchet and see if you can turn the engine over by hand. If you can turn it over by hand I would then check you valves for adjustment to spaecs.
Well I took the cover off and am able to crank it one revolution. At that point, it seems to bind up and gets really hard to turn it past that point. Once past that point, it turns easily again until you reach that point again. I tried cranking it with the starter, it again just turns one revolution and stops at that point. Can a valve out of adjustment do this? I just can't believe that it was running good and after shutting it off and sitting overnight a adjustment would be needed. Any ideas anyone?
First, let me thank you for the advise you have given. I took off the valve covers and I checked the valve clearance. Both the intake and exhaust are set to specs .004 & .006. I removed the spark plug and it will crank over freely. Compression blowing out of the spark plug hole. Valves seem to be working like they should and I didn't notice any broken valve springs or trouble as it cranked over. I put the plug back in and it went back to cranking one revolution and hanging up in the one spot it did before. Move it past that spot and it will crank once again, one revolution and stop. Is it possible it jumped timing? If so, wouldn't that make a piston want to kiss the valve when it was open? I'm stumped as thinking about it, if it jumped timing, it would hit the piston when the plug was out and I would have heard or (felt) something. Any help at this point would be a blessing. I live out in the mountains of Eastern Kentucky and the closest dealer (Not even Arctic Kat) is 60 miles away.
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The 650s have an compression release on the cam and it is very important that the valves be set correctly if they are you may want to pull the cam cover and check the compression release to see if its broken and pull the timing inspection plug and set the motor up on tdc and make sure all the valves have no rocker arm pressure on them.
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Have you tried jumpers directly to the starter; bypassing ther battery cables altogether? Make sure to attach ground jumper to a clean connection for ground. Remover the plug wire(s) connection. No need to start; just see if it tirns over freely. If that works, check your battery cables.
Well, first let me thank everyone for the troubleshooting advise. I rechecked the valves and on the right intake it was loose by .0001. I readjusted it to .004 and tried again, Same thing. I finally started from scratch and rechecked everything and found out that it was my battery. While checking the starter, I actually took it off and it didn't turn over using the battery from the UTV. I checked it with my Jeep battery and it spun over freely. Rechecking my battery, I found it was only putting out 9.5 volts. This caught my off guard as when this whole thing started, it checked out ok. I had it on my charger while working on it and it always showed it being fully charged. I guess I learned a lesson and got to know my Prowler a whole lot more than I really wanted to. Thanks again for all the help and patients from everyone who commented. It will be nice being able to go up my mountain once again.
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Good catch. Always best to check the easiest things first; do a good detailed visual inspection (wires, connections, wear n tear); then revisit whatever area/item you last worked on, then graduate to the more difficult and most expensive.
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